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Trunyan Village: An Ancient Bali Aga Village
Unique Open-Air Burial Tradition in Kintamani
Behind the beauty of Lake Batur and the foothills of Mount Batur lies Trunyan Village, which holds one of Bali’s most ancient traditions. Unlike most Balinese villages, this village is home to the Bali Aga people. These people are the original ancestors of Bali, who have maintained their customs long before the Hindu-Javanese influence arrived on the island.
Trunyan Village is known internationally for its open-air burial tradition. Bodies are not cremated or buried, but rather placed above ground under a sacred tree, the Taru Menyan Tree, which is believed to naturally neutralize the smell of decomposition.
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What is Trunyan Village?
Trunyan Village is a traditional village in Kintamani District, Bangli Regency, Bali. Located on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, it is accessible only by water. The only way to reach Trunyan is by small boat from Kedisan Pier. It takes about 20–30 minutes to reach the village, crossing a calm volcanic lake.
The name “Trunyan” itself comes from the word Taru Menyan, which in Old Balinese means “fragrant tree.” The name refers to a sacred tree that grows in the village cemetery. This large tree is believed to have supernatural abilities to neutralize the odor of corpses left to rot in the open.
The people of Trunyan Kintamani are part of the Bali Aga group. Their lifestyle differs significantly from the majority of Balinese, who adhere to the Hindu Dharma tradition. They have their own belief system, rituals, and customs that are still maintained to this day.
History and Cultural Background of Trunyan Village
The people of Trunyan trace their ancestry back to the pre-Hindu era. Their local belief, called Agama Bayu, remains dominant in Bali. This belief system worships the wind, the stars, and the forces of nature.
One of the key beliefs of the people of Trunyan Kintamani is that Mount Batur is a manifestation of the god of fire. Therefore, cremating a corpse is considered an act of encroachment on the god’s authority. This is the reason why cremation is never performed in Trunyan.
The village’s patron deity is Ratu Gede Pancering Jagat, who is worshipped at the main temple, Pura Pancering Jagat. This temple serves as the spiritual center of Trunyan’s life and is one of the religious sites that visitors can visit with respect.
Mepasah Ritual — Trunyan Village’s Open Burial Tradition
The most famous tradition of Trunyan Village is the burial ritual known as Mepasah. In this ritual, the body is not cremated or buried underground. Instead, the body is cleansed with rainwater, wrapped in white cloth, and placed above ground in a special burial area. This area, called Seme Wayah, features a Taru Menyan Tree.
A prism-shaped covering made of woven bamboo, called ancak saji, is placed over the body. The body is left to decompose naturally through time and nature. Surprisingly, this burial area does not emit the pungent odor one might expect. This phenomenon has attracted the attention of many researchers and tourists over the years.
This large Taru Menyan tree is believed to emit natural compounds from its roots, trunk, and leaves that neutralize the smell of decomposition. This tree may not be cut down or trimmed, as it is considered a sacred living entity by all villagers.
This tradition applies specifically to married Trunyan residents who die, as they are entitled to a Mepasah burial. When the body is no longer just bones, the skull is collected and neatly arranged on a stone altar near the tree.
Three Types of Seme in Trunyan Village
One fact that tourists rarely know is that Trunyan Village has more than one cemetery. Here’s a comparison:
| Types of Graves | Criteria | Treatment of the Corpse |
| Seme Wayah | Married adult, natural death | Placed open under Taru Menyan Tree, only covered with food |
| Seme Muda | Died by accident or unnatural death | Buried separately, treated differently because it is considered imperfect |
| Seme Rare | Unmarried infants and children | Returned to earth (buried), considered sacred and uncontaminated by the world |
This three-grave system embodies the complex spiritual beliefs of the Trunyan people regarding death and the afterlife. For them, the manner of death determines where and how they should be buried.
The Taru Menyan Tree
No discussion of Trunyan Village would be complete without discussing the tree that is central to all these traditions. The Taru Menyan Tree is a massive tree that grows in the center of the Seme Wayah burial area. This tree is believed to have existed for hundreds of years and serves as the spiritual “guardian” of the entire burial area.
The Taru Menyan Tree’s ability to neutralize odors has not been fully confirmed by modern science. Some researchers suspect that this tree produces certain phytochemical compounds that inhibit the odorous decomposition process. Whatever the scientific explanation, the tree’s presence is central to Trunyan Kintamani’s cultural identity.
Daily Life in Trunyan Village
Beyond its renowned burial traditions, Trunyan Village is a quiet village with a strong sense of tradition. Residents’ homes still utilize traditional architectural styles. Residents go about their daily lives, farming, fishing, and maintaining ancestral rituals.
This village deliberately distances itself from outside influences to preserve its traditions. Visitors can also observe the process of making local handicrafts and witness the residents’ daily lives, living in a rhythm that has been going on for centuries.
How to Get to Trunyan Village and Visiting Tips
Travel Route
- From Denpasar or Ngurah Rai Airport: approximately 2–2.5 hours drive to Kedisan Pier
- From Ubud: approximately 1.5 hours to Kedisan Pier
- From Kintamani town: approximately 30–40 minutes to Kedisan Pier
- From Kedisan Pier: take a traditional boat for approximately 20–30 minutes to Trunyan Village
Important Tips Before Visiting
- Use the services of an authorized local guide for a more meaningful experience and to directly support the local community.
- Tourists should dress modestly. Avoid revealing clothing, especially when entering the cemetery and temple areas.
- Do not touch, move, or remove bones and skulls in any form.
- Prepare cash for boat rental (around IDR 200,000–400,000/boat) and donations at the cemetery.
- Visit in the morning or afternoon for the best light and calm lake conditions.
To complete your trip to Trunyan Kintamani, you can combine this visit with an experience at Tan’s Estate. This destination offers glamping activities, a cruise on Lake Batur, and various other modern tourist facilities.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Are the Trunyan cemeteries truly odorless?
Yes. The Taru Menyan trees growing in the cemetery area are believed to contain natural compounds that can neutralize the odor of decomposition. This phenomenon has been observed by many visitors and researchers over the years.
Who may be buried in Seme Wayah?
Only married Trunyan residents who died of natural causes. Victims of accidents or unnatural deaths are placed in separate cemeteries (Seme Muda).
How much does it cost to take a boat to Trunyan Village?
Boat rental fees from Kedisan Pier range from IDR 200,000–400,000 per boat (not per person), depending on negotiation. Using an authorized local guide is highly recommended.
Is Trunyan Kintamani safe to visit?
Yes, it is safe as long as you follow local customs. Do not touch the bones or skulls of the deceased in the cemetery. Tourists should dress modestly and always respect the cemetery area as a sacred place.
Conclusion
Trunyan Village is more than just a typical tourist destination in Kintamani. This ancient village is a direct reflection of Bali’s oldest civilization. Tourists who come to this village will see a place where tradition, belief, and nature blend together. The Mepasah ritual, the Taru Menyan Tree, and the three-grave system are truly unique intangible cultural heritage sites in the world.
If you’re looking for an authentic and immersive Balinese cultural experience, Trunyan Kintamani is the perfect choice. Come to this village with respect and a passion for learning, to discover how the community maintains such a profound connection. Plan your visit to Trunyan Village today and make this trip part of your most meaningful exploration of Bali.
